Learning to Play Acoustic Guitar For the Beginner

by: Ralph Serpe

The very first step toward learning to play acoustic guitar is to develop confidence and to destroy that "I can't do it" mentality. Your biggest obstacle in your acoustic guitar playing is not going to be money, time, or the absence of a good teacher. The biggest obstacle is going to be you. You are your own worst enemy. Once you learn how to tame the negativity inside, you will be that much closer to becoming a good acoustic guitar player. Frustration is normal during the learning process. Learning anything new is not meant to be easy. Resistance is what helps us grow. So the next time you are working on a scale, or chord progression, and you find yourself fumbling or messing up, don't throw down the guitar with frustration, instead welcome the challenge and have patience in it. YOUR FIRST GUITAR Buying a first guitar is an important step for the beginner guitarist. You should have a good understanding of the acoustic guitar as a whole as well as a good idea of what your goals are as an acoustic guitar player. By educating yourself in these areas, you will be able to make an intelligent purchase that can provide you with years of enjoyable playing. There are two kinds of acoustic guitars that you can purchase and they are your classic or nylon string guitar and your steel string guitar. One is not necessarily better than the other as it is really a matter of personal taste, but each guitar does have its own unique feel and sound. The classic or nylon guitars produce a round or dull tone, where as the steel string guitars are much different, producing a bright tinny or metallic sound. You will certainly develop your own preference the longer you play, or like many guitarists, you will enjoy using both. Only time will tell. Another thing you will have to consider is the body style of your acoustic guitar. Acoustic guitars come in a variety of different body sizes from small to jumbo. Each size has its own distinct sound. Smaller body guitars have more treble and midrange sounds and are much easier to hold. Lead guitarists tend to favor smaller body guitars because they tend to have a more balanced sound to them and are easier to make out when playing with other musicians in a band. Your larger body guitars have more bass and are more difficult to hold. The only way to really know what body style is right for you is to try one out for yourself. Your best bet is to find a guitar that you are comfortable holding and playing. Guitar playing is challenging enough in the beginning and you do not need any added difficulties. Guitar quality will differ depending on the model and brand. Sometimes two instruments of the same make and model can differ as well. It is therefore important to try out as many guitars as possible within your price range. It is also recommended that you bring along an experienced musician when you go guitar shopping. An experienced guitar player will be able to better judge the quality of a guitar. Buy the best guitar that you can afford. Many of the guitars that sell for under $100 are poorly made for the most part. If you cannot afford to spend more, then save up and wait until you can. A well made guitar will be easier to play, more appealing to the eye and more responsive. If you enjoy playing your instrument more, you will then be more inspired to play. You can find a fine beginner acoustic guitar for under $500. Some brands to look into are Seagull, Martin, Yamaha, Fender and Ibanez to name a few. You may also want to look into the used acoustic guitar market. You may be able to find some real gems out there at great prices, but you have to be very careful with used guitars. Make sure you take an experienced guitar player with you if you decide to buy a used guitar. LEARNING & PRACTICE There is probably no substitution for a good guitar teacher, but it can be rather expensive over time, so many guitar players are left with no other choice then to learn on their own. For those of you who may not be able to afford a professional instructor right now, below are some guidelines for helping you get the most out of your practice time. Practice as many days out of the week as you can for at least twenty to thirty minutes, more if possible. The more often you play the faster you will learn. Be careful not to overdo it though and take breaks of course. Your brain can only absorb so much information before it needs a break and your hands and the rest of your body need time to recuperate as well. When you practice do not rush through any of your exercises. Twenty minutes of quality focused practice is much more effective than an hour of sloppy practice Study Your Instrument Take some time to learn more about the parts of your acoustic guitar. Learn about how it is constructed and how all the parts work together to produce those beautiful sounds that you hear. Learn How to Tune Your Guitar You can find free step by step guides online for tuning your acoustic guitar. Make certain that you spend time learning how to do this. Purchase a guitar tuner at any local music store and practice tuning your guitar with the guitar tuner. When you begin to develop a better ear, try tuning it without the guitar tuner. Then use the guitar tuner to check and see how accurate your ear was. This will help you develop a good ear. Learn the Right Posture If you are accustomed to just grabbing your guitar and sitting down to play in any old position, then you are at risk of injuring yourself and developing bad playing habits. Make sure you understand the correct way to sit and hold your instrument for optimal performance. Learn Your Chords & Scales Learn as many different chords and variations of the same chord that you can and practice your scales. This will give you a well rounded familiarity with the frets on the guitar and it will build up strength in your fingers and hands. I hope this article has helped with your acoustic guitar learning. Keep a positive attitude and practice! Before you know you will be playing acoustic guitar like a pro. I wish you well. God Bless.

About The Author
Ralph Serpe Are you interested in more free information on learning to play acoustic guitar, including articles, tips and instructional video clips? Visit http://www.learn-acoustic-guitar.com today!

Astrology's Capricorn Lucky Days; Horoscope modifiers from Numerology

by: Keith Abbott

People born in the days from December 22nd through January 20th, have the Astrology sun sign of Capricorn the Goat. As a Capricorn, you probably know your basic Horoscope, but did you know there are over seventy days every year that are lucky for you, just because of your sun sign? Just what are Capricorn's lucky days? ===> Your Birth Date In Numerology, your birth date is always a lucky day for you. So, you should add your birth date to the list of lucky days below. As an example, actor Orlando Bloom was born on January 13th, 1977, so he needs to add January 13th to his list of lucky days for 2008. ===> Universal Days Days on which the Universal day number matches your Life Path number are also lucky for you. The universe supports your actions on these particular days. You calculate your Life Path by summing all the digits of your birth date, and then reducing by fadic addition. Orlando Bloom's Life Path number is a two as shown below: Life Path = (01 + 13 + 1977) = (1991) = (20) = (2). Now, as an example, December 8th, 2007 will be a lucky day for Orlando Bloom . The Universal Day number will be a two, matching his Life Path number. Universal Day (12/08/2007) = (12 + 8 + 2007) = (2027) = (11) = (2). Doing this calculation for each day is tedious; but, you can pre-calculate the year and month sum, (12 + 2007) = (3), and then just add this value to the day number, and sum the result. (3 + 8) = (11) = (2). ===> Capricorn Calendar Dates Six days of each month are particularly lucky for Capricorns. They are as follows: For January: 2nd, 7th, 8th, 18th, 26th, and the 31st. For February: 3rd, 7th, 9th, 12th, 13th, and the 27th. For March: 1st, 5th, 7th, 10th, 24th, and the 28th. For April: 2nd, 3rd, 7th, 16th, 25th, and the 26th. For May: 5th, 6th, 14th, 15th, 27th, and the 31st. For June: 1st, 14th, 15th, 18th, 24th, and the 29th. For July: 9th, 12th, 13th, 17th, 20th, and the 27th. For August: 3rd, 8th, 9th, 16th, 21st, and the 31st. For September: 5th, 9th, 14th, 18th, 19th, and the 27th. For October: 10th, 11th, 16th, 17th, 25th, and the 30th. For November: 6th, 7th, 8th, 12th, 13th, and the 26th. For December: 3rd, 8th, 9th, 19th, 24th, and the 31st.

About The Author
Keith Abbott is the developer and owner of 'Numerology 4 You' where you can order your own Numerology reading including your own Lucky Days calendar. Visit him on the web today at http://www.numerology4you.com/

Astrology's Sagittarius Lucky Days; Horoscope modifiers from Numerology

by: Keith Abbott

People born in the days from November 23rd through December 21st, have the Astrology sun sign of Sagittarius the Archer. As a Sagittarius, you probably know your basic Horoscope, but did you know there are over seventy days every year that are lucky for you, just because of your sun sign? Just what are Sagittarius lucky days? ===> Your Birth Date In Numerology, your birth date is a lucky day for you. So, you should add your birth date your list of lucky days. As an example, actor Brad Pitt was born on December 18th, 1963, so he will add December 18thh to the December list below. ===> Universal Days Days on which the Universal day number equals your Life Path number are also lucky for you. The universe supports your actions on these days. You can calculate your Life Path number by summing the digits of your birth date, and then reducing by fadic addition. Brad Pitt's Life Path number is a three as shown below: Life Path = (12 + 18 + 1963) = (1993) = (22) = (4). As an example, October 3nd, 2007 will be a lucky day for Brad Pitt. The Universal Day number will be four, matching his Life Path number. Universal Day (10/03/2007) = (10 + 3 + 2007) = (2020) = (4). Doing this calculation for each day is tedious; however, you can short-cut the work by summing the year and month first, (10 + 2007) = (1), and then just add this value to the day number, summing the result. (1 + 3) = (4). ===> Sagittarius Calendar Dates Six days of each month are particularly lucky for Sagittarius. They are as follows: For January: 1st, 9th, 14th, 15th, 23rd, and the 24th. For February: 3rd, 5th, 7th, 19th, 21st, and the 28th. For March: 5th, 8th, 10th, 19th, 23rd, and the 31st. For April: 4th, 14th, 15th, 19th, 20th, and the 28th. For May: 1st, 12th, 16th, 20th, 26th, and the 31st. For June: 7th, 8th, 13th, 17th, 21st, and the 25th. For July: 6th, 11th, 15th, 21st, 22nd, and the 25th. For August: 3rd, 6th, 7th, 14th, 15th, and the 29th. For September: 1st, 10th, 12th, 15th, 26th, and the 29th. For October: 4th, 5th, 22nd, 23rd, 27th, and the 31st. For November: 9th, 19th, 20th, 23rd, 24th, and the 28th. For December: 3rd, 7th, 8th, 17th, 22nd, and the 25th.

About The Author
Keith Abbott is the developer and owner of 'Numerology 4 You' where you can order your own Numerology reading including your own Lucky Days calendar. Visit him on the web today at http://www.numerology4you.com/

Growing Crystals

by: Kevin Clement

Tip, Tricks, and Techniques Do you want to grow great crystals? These are general instructions for growing crystals that you can use for most crystal recipes. You can find the recipes and information on crystal structures in the Growing Crystals section. Here are the basics, to get you started and help you troubleshoot problems: What Are Crystals? Crystals are structures that are formed from a regular repeated pattern of connected atoms or molecules. Crystals grow by a process termed nucleation. During nucleation, the atoms or molecules that will crystallize (solute) are dissolved into their individual units in a solvent. The solute particles contact each other and connect with each other. This subunit is larger than an individual particle, so more particles will contact and connect with it. Eventually, this crystal nucleus becomes large enough that it falls out of solution (crystallizes). Other solute molecules will continue to attach to the surface of the crystal, causing it to grow until a balance or equilibrium is reached between the solute molecules in the crystal and those that remain in the solution. The Basic Technique 1. Make a saturated solution. 2. Start a garden or grow a seed crystal. 3. Continue growth. In order to grow a crystal, you need to make a solution which maximizes the chances for the solute particles to come together and form a nucleus, which will grow into your crystal. This means you will want a concentrated solution with as much solute as you can dissolve (saturated solution). Sometimes nucleation can occur simply through the interactions between the solute particles in the solution (called unassisted nucleation), but sometimes it's better to provided a sort of meeting place for solute particles to aggregate (assisted nucleation). A rough surface tends to be more attractive for nucleation than a smooth surface. As an example, a crystal is more likely to start forming on a rough piece of string than on the smooth side of a glass. Make a Saturated Solution It's best to start your crystals with a saturated solution. A more dilute solution will become saturated as the air evaporates some liquid, but evaporation takes time (days, weeks). You will get your crystals more quickly if the solution is saturated to begin with. Also, there may come a time when you need to add more liquid to your crystal solution. If your solution is anything but saturated, then it will undo your work and actually dissolve your crystals! Make a saturated solution by adding your crystal solute (e.g., alum, sugar, salt) to the solvent (usually water, although some recipes may call for other solvents). Stirring the mix will help to dissolve the solute. Sometimes you may want to apply heat to help the solute dissolve. You can use boiling water or sometimes even heat the solution on the stove, over a burner, or in a microwave. Growing a Crystal Garden or 'Geode' If you just want to grow a mass of crystals or a crystal garden, you can pour your saturated solution over a substrate (rocks, brick, sponge), cover the setup with a paper towel or coffee filter to keep out dust, and allow the liquid to slowly evaporate. Growing a Seed Crystal On the other hand, if you are trying to grow a larger single crystal, you will need to obtain a seed crystal. One method of getting a seed crystal is to pour a small amount of your saturated solution onto a plate, let the drop evaporate, and scrape the crystals formed on the bottom to use as seeds. Another method is to pour saturated solution into a very smooth container (like a glass jar) and dangle a rough object (like a piece of string) into the liquid. Small crystals will start to grow on the string, which can be used as seed crystals. Crystal Growth and Housekeeping If your seed crystal is on a string, pour the liquid into a clean container (otherwise crystals will eventually grow on the glass and compete with your crystal), suspend the string in the liquid, cover the container with a paper towel or coffee filter (don't seal it with a lid!), and continue to grow your crystal. Pour the liquid into a clean container whenever you see crystals growing on the container. If you selected a seed from a plate, tie it onto a nylon fishing line (too smooth to be attractive to crystals, so your seed can grow without competition), suspend the crystal in a clean container with saturated solution, and grow your crystal the same way as with seeds that were originally on a string. Keeping Your Treasures Crystals that were made from a water (aqueous) solution will dissolve somewhat in humid air. Keep your crystal beautiful by storing it in a dry, closed container. You may wish to wrap it in paper to keep it dry and prevent dust from accumulating on it. Certain crystals can be protected by being sealed with an acrylic coating (like Future floor polish), although applying the acrylic will dissolve the outermost layer of the crystal.

About The Author
Kevin Clement, Qianqi Crystal Ltd. Visit beautiful crystal gifts: http://www.cn-crystal.com

Growing Crystals

by: Kevin Clement

Tip, Tricks, and Techniques Do you want to grow great crystals? These are general instructions for growing crystals that you can use for most crystal recipes. You can find the recipes and information on crystal structures in the Growing Crystals section. Here are the basics, to get you started and help you troubleshoot problems: What Are Crystals? Crystals are structures that are formed from a regular repeated pattern of connected atoms or molecules. Crystals grow by a process termed nucleation. During nucleation, the atoms or molecules that will crystallize (solute) are dissolved into their individual units in a solvent. The solute particles contact each other and connect with each other. This subunit is larger than an individual particle, so more particles will contact and connect with it. Eventually, this crystal nucleus becomes large enough that it falls out of solution (crystallizes). Other solute molecules will continue to attach to the surface of the crystal, causing it to grow until a balance or equilibrium is reached between the solute molecules in the crystal and those that remain in the solution. The Basic Technique 1. Make a saturated solution. 2. Start a garden or grow a seed crystal. 3. Continue growth. In order to grow a crystal, you need to make a solution which maximizes the chances for the solute particles to come together and form a nucleus, which will grow into your crystal. This means you will want a concentrated solution with as much solute as you can dissolve (saturated solution). Sometimes nucleation can occur simply through the interactions between the solute particles in the solution (called unassisted nucleation), but sometimes it's better to provided a sort of meeting place for solute particles to aggregate (assisted nucleation). A rough surface tends to be more attractive for nucleation than a smooth surface. As an example, a crystal is more likely to start forming on a rough piece of string than on the smooth side of a glass. Make a Saturated Solution It's best to start your crystals with a saturated solution. A more dilute solution will become saturated as the air evaporates some liquid, but evaporation takes time (days, weeks). You will get your crystals more quickly if the solution is saturated to begin with. Also, there may come a time when you need to add more liquid to your crystal solution. If your solution is anything but saturated, then it will undo your work and actually dissolve your crystals! Make a saturated solution by adding your crystal solute (e.g., alum, sugar, salt) to the solvent (usually water, although some recipes may call for other solvents). Stirring the mix will help to dissolve the solute. Sometimes you may want to apply heat to help the solute dissolve. You can use boiling water or sometimes even heat the solution on the stove, over a burner, or in a microwave. Growing a Crystal Garden or 'Geode' If you just want to grow a mass of crystals or a crystal garden, you can pour your saturated solution over a substrate (rocks, brick, sponge), cover the setup with a paper towel or coffee filter to keep out dust, and allow the liquid to slowly evaporate. Growing a Seed Crystal On the other hand, if you are trying to grow a larger single crystal, you will need to obtain a seed crystal. One method of getting a seed crystal is to pour a small amount of your saturated solution onto a plate, let the drop evaporate, and scrape the crystals formed on the bottom to use as seeds. Another method is to pour saturated solution into a very smooth container (like a glass jar) and dangle a rough object (like a piece of string) into the liquid. Small crystals will start to grow on the string, which can be used as seed crystals. Crystal Growth and Housekeeping If your seed crystal is on a string, pour the liquid into a clean container (otherwise crystals will eventually grow on the glass and compete with your crystal), suspend the string in the liquid, cover the container with a paper towel or coffee filter (don't seal it with a lid!), and continue to grow your crystal. Pour the liquid into a clean container whenever you see crystals growing on the container. If you selected a seed from a plate, tie it onto a nylon fishing line (too smooth to be attractive to crystals, so your seed can grow without competition), suspend the crystal in a clean container with saturated solution, and grow your crystal the same way as with seeds that were originally on a string. Keeping Your Treasures Crystals that were made from a water (aqueous) solution will dissolve somewhat in humid air. Keep your crystal beautiful by storing it in a dry, closed container. You may wish to wrap it in paper to keep it dry and prevent dust from accumulating on it. Certain crystals can be protected by being sealed with an acrylic coating (like Future floor polish), although applying the acrylic will dissolve the outermost layer of the crystal.

About The Author
Kevin Clement, Qianqi Crystal Ltd. Visit beautiful crystal gifts: http://www.cn-crystal.com

American Indian Art Auctions: Beadwork

by: Patrick Hammond

The artworks made by the American Indian incorporate numerous varieties of arts and crafts. The diversity of the American Indian art ranges from the traditional beadwork, pottery and other conventional Native American art to the fine paintings, sculptures, photography and other sophisticated works. And because of that, there are numerous art auctions, of which are found either online or offline. These art auctions feature almost types of American Indian artworks. Later on, we will tackle the American Indian artwork that has the most traditional and historical feature, of which, are the beadworks made by the Native Americans. The beadworks made by the native American Indians have rich meanings in terms of symbolisms; these beadworks also are highly decorative and utilitarian. The process and the beadwork itself is one of the oldest crafts of the Native American Indians. The beadworks are mostly made of stones, bones, shells and other semi precious stones. The some of the beadworks made by the native American Indians that are available these days are made very much the same way as their forefathers had made them. Although few of them are made using today’s modern technology, little has been changed and the process is somewhat the same as the ancient ways. The most popular American Indian artworks are those made of sea shell materials. These types of beadworks are highly popular. Almost every American Indian beadworks are made from sea shell material, from necklaces to purses to almost everything. In the old times, the beadworks made by the American Indians were made mostly of the turtle shells and animal horns and hooves. These native American artworks were often used for rattling or tinkling materials that are used for their dances. These artworks were also worn by hunters in a form of necklaces and were mostly made of wolf and bear claws. They serve as trophies of their kills, and serves as a symbol of the hunter’s expertise. While some of the American Indian beadworks are made of steamed bones and seeds. They were often used for stringing and are mostly blended into various forms. Because of their ever increasing popularity, oriental factories has been replicating, manufacturing and importing beadworks of the Native American Indians. They have been doing it for several decades now. Therefore, has been a competing factor in the beadwork industry of the American Indian arts. And because of that, the craftsmen in the industry of American Indian art industry are greatly affected, losing a considerable amount of income (millions and millions of dollars) because of the fake native artworks made by these oriental factories. In terms of string beadworks of the American Indians, they were mostly made of animal sinews that are finely divided and are attached on clothing. Sometimes, sturdy plant fibers were utilized for this reason. These days, Navajos and some traditional aboriginal American communities still manufacture an ancient type of beadwork that is called the “heishii”. The “heishii” or referred to as “legend necklace” is the most popular type of beadwork, and are used to refer to a legend. Even today, heishii is still used to narrate a legend, with every single bead symbolizing a character. The craftsmen of today’s American Indian art create designs using the today’s technology, by creating actual beadworks through digital means. Thus, the sophisticated and complex beadworks and its designs can be tested digitally before actually manufacturing the piece. Therefore, adding creative process for the craftsmen. These American Indian artworks and its components are essential factors of in the field of archaeology. Not only do they survive history, they also provide numerous fascinating tales and stories that most of which are still untold. As a matter of fact, ancient American Indian artworks are found thousands of miles from seas. Of which is an indication of the numerous trade routes and contacts thousands and thousands of years ago by various cultures. Beadworks crisscross itself through time not just through the history of native American Indians but also in the modern technology of today. The most vital aspect of the American Indian beadwork is the value it represents when it is given among family and friends. Their true meanings are associated with aspirations and essential judgments of a person.

About The Author
Patrick Hammond is a writer for http://www.artauction101.com where you can read about explanation on the types of art auctions and some examples.

Cleaning an Antique Quilt

by: Tracy Crowe

If you have just acquired an antique quilt, there are some things to watch for before you think about how to clean it. You need to look carefully at the quilt's age and condition. You also need to think carefully about whether you should wash a quilt. It is a good idea to seek the advice of a professional textile conservationist first. You can find one by contacting The American Institute for Conservation, 1717 K St. NW, Suite 200, Washington DC 20006. It is true that no matter how careful you are, you may permanently damage a quilt by washing it. You should certainly never wash a damaged quilt before repairing it. There might be stains on your quilt, since old quilts are made of natural fibers which absorb things like body oils, liquids, soils, and other organic substances easily and over time these invisible stains oxidize and become colored stains. That makes it difficult to know how to pretreat them. Often what we think of as blood stains are really the remains of a dead bug and these stains are nearly impossible to remove. Another problem is dye migration. Changes in temperatures will cause dye migration that results in brown stains in quilts folded and stored for years. Since, the dye has permanently stained adjoining quilt fabrics, most stains caused by dye migration can't be removed. You shouldn't even try because you can do even more damage by trying than they have already. In addition to these stains, your quilt might have damaged scattered spots known as foxing, which is caused by the growth of molds. If your quilt is very stained, it may be a good idea to spot treat areas with sodium perborate, the active ingredient in Clorox 2, before washing the whole quilt. Another way to spot clean is to brush a paste of Biz, Ivory Snow flakes or Shaklees Nature Bright on the stained spot and then vacuum it well with the brush attachment of your vacuum cleaner after it dries. Be careful to have all portions of your quilt equally clean. Using lemon juice to bleach stains, or laying linens on the lawn stains is not a good idea as your fabric may be temporarily brightened, but this usually turns to yellow after a while. If you are going to display your quilt folded over a rack, and there are no holes, rips, frayed seams, stains, delicate fabrics or embellishments etc in it, you may be able to just simply air it outside on a nice warm day to remove dust and dirt and freshen the quilt. You can lay it on the lawn with a clean sheet underneath it and another on top of it for protection, especially from sunlight. If you don't have a lawn, you may hang it over a wide railing with a sheep protector. You could also vacuum it with the brush attachment of a low powered vacuum cleaner, although you would need to put a clean fine mesh screen over your quilt first, to prevent threads and yarn from getting sucked away, if it had elaborate embellishments or damage. You want to vacuum gently, use a Dust-buster if you have one. Be careful not to pull loose material from your quilt. Hold the vacuum cleaner at least half an inch above your quilt, vacuum both sites, and repeat that if you need to. Never vacuum painted quilts since you may strip the paint off. In summary, cleaning an antique quilt can be a challenge. A lot depends on the age and condition of your quilt, and whether it has delicate fabrics or embellishments on it. It is probably a good idea to avoid washing it if you can, although you do want to get rid of dust and dirt as much as possible. Always check with a professional textile conservationist first to see what they think about the advisability of washing it.

About The Author
Tracy Crowe loves antiques, including quilts. For more information about quilts, visit http://www.quiltinfosite.com

How To Build A Bird House

by: Anthony Benjamin

How To Build A Bird House - If you enjoy spending time around birds then you may want to build a birdhouse. Building a birdhouse is a great way to become a companion of birds. Birdhouses add attractiveness to any landscape. Crafting, designing and building birdhouses is a in-expensive hobby. You need to construct a birdhouse that is easy to clean. It should be sturdy, cool, and rainproof as well. Remember, this is your birdhouse, so use your imagination; you will have something unique and all your own when your project is completed.. It is important not to use metal to build your birdhouse, not even nails; use non-toxic outdoor wood glue. Metal can become very hot when the sun is beating down on it, plus it can have very sharp edges. Wood is the best material to build a birdhouse. To keep water out of the entrance of the birdhouse you need the roof to pitch enough to shed water. Add a couple small holes near the top of the birdhouse for ventilation on hot days. The bottom of the birdhouse should be constructed with screws, so it will be easy to take apart when you clean it. When your bird house is built it is time to mount it. When mounting your birdhouse it is important to keep in mind predators, such as squirrels, cats and snakes. Place your bird house mount out of the range of jumping and climbing animals. The best mount for a birdhouse is PVC pipe which can be purchased inexpensively at your local home hardware supply store. Get an 8' long piece of PVC that is 3 or 4" in diameter. Also be sure and buy a "flange" that will fit into the PVC. When looking at a 'flange' from the side it has the shape of a man's dress hat, as one would also look at the dress hat from from it's side view. The round part of the 'hat' - or 'flange' slips down, about 2" into one end of the PVC pipe. The flat part of the 'hat' - or 'flange' should have a small hole pre-drilled in each corner. A large, approx. 12" x 12" piece of plywood is attached, to the flat part of the 'hat' or 'flange' with screws via the pre-drilled holes. Be sure this is placed in the middle of the 12" x 12 plywood. This will serve as your birdhouse base. Now turn this over and simply slide the round part of the 'hat' - or 'flange' into the end of your PVC pipe. On top of this securely mount your bird house. When you have moved your PVC to an upright mounting position, you would be looking upward, and see the screws that attached flange to your 12" x 12" base. Now it's time to mount your bird house. Dig about an 18" hole and drop it in! Be sure and pack the dirt solidly back around the base to secure it. For added security you could pick up an inexpensive bag of ready mix cement. Just mix it with water, set the PVC in the middle of the hole and pour the cement evenly around it. It is a good idea if you could put your hands on a level to make sure your PVC stays vertically straight while working. That's all there is to it! When you are ready to clean your bird house simple unscrew the 12" x 12" base mounting screws, slide off the base with it's attached birdhouse and clean it! When cleaned, replace the 12" x 12" base and reinsert your screws. Now wasn't that easy! For more great information be sure and visit: http://www.bird-city.com If you lightly coat the PVC pipe mount with in-expensive vegetable oil ants and other crawling insects will not be able to climb disturb the bird nest. Don't forget to treat your feathered friend with feeders, bird baths or bird pond sprinkle the area with some wild flower seeds. When your wild flower are in bloom your feathered friend will provide you with constant delight. ~ Anthony Benjamin ~ http://www.mysecretsites.info

About The Author
Anthony Benjamin is an avid world traveler, lover of nature and animals. He loves to write and share his wealth of information and adventures in his writings. His favorite place to retreat and write is his summer home, secluded high on a mountaintop in the Great Smoky Mountains. A visit to his website is a true delight: http://www.appalachian-treasures.com

Photography and the Great Outdoors

by: Suzanne VanDegrift

Combining photography with the passion of hiking, biking and mountain climbing can result in the most incredible photographs imaginable. Whether it's ice climbing in the Rockies, with your camera bag packed safely away, until you reach the summit where you have a breathtaking panoramic view of the frozen earth spread out as far as the eye can see. Or a leisurely springtime hike up a flower carpeted Pocono hillside with your camera close at hand to catch that pheasant or covey of quail. The outdoors and photography are a perfect match. If you're a week-end photographer who can't wait to get out of the city and become one with nature, there are countless opportunities that will allow you to fulfill your desire to "get away" and get that "shot of a lifetime". Consider those who are lucky enough to live in Seattle, Washington where you can leave work on a Friday afternoon and be standing on the majestic and rugged coastline, removing your camera and tripod from their bag in time to be setting up to focus on one of the most beautiful sunsets on earth. The next morning, while enjoying your first cup of coffee, you could be snapping pictures of the Grey whales which migrate north along the Washington coast between February and April every year. Or maybe mountain scenery is your first love and you are fortunate enough to live in the Yellowstone area of Montana were the wildlife is phenomenal. Grizzly, coyote, elk.... big horned sheep playing on the mountainside. Buffalo grazing peacefully, as they must have a 100 years ago. This is truly Big Sky Country where you can catch a glimpse of a graceful eagle gliding silently through the trees. These are pictures most people can only see in a magazine, not through their camera lens on a brisk autumn morning. Remember it's important to research not only where you're going to be photographing and what camera equipment you'll be using, but also the bags, backpacks and pouches to which you entrust your valuable cameras, lenses, tripods and accessories The touring bicyclist needs to invest in a dry sack in the event he encounters inclement weather, but the young photographer hiking through the Sierra Nevada, in search of the various species of blooming cactus, probably would be in need of the backpack with room for her water bottles. Look for quality, durability and functionality. Whatever your passion, wherever you call home. There are beautiful pictures waiting to be taken. That horse pasture you are fortunate enough to pass on your way to work every day. Stop; take a good look. I bet you'll see a terrific photograph. One you'd probably be in awe of if you saw it in a magazine. So pack up those camera bags and keep your equipment handy. You never know when that one perfect picture will appear.

About The Author
Suzanne VanDeGrift of Web Submission Services, Inc has developed this article for http://M-ROCK.COM, manufacturer of highly functional camera bags and backpacks which combine superior quality with a professional appearance.

Photography Pioneers

by: Suzanne VanDeGrift

Modern day photography dates back to the early 1800's. The word photography is derived from the Greeks; photos meaning light and graphein meaning to draw. The word was first used in 1839 by scientist Sir John FW Herschel to describe a method of recording images. That was 12 years after the first photograph was captured by Frenchman Louis Jacque Mande Daguerre, a professional opera scene painter. This first process took eight hours and he then worked 12 more years to reduce the expose time to under 30 minutes and keep the image from disappearing. These first photographs were exposed on metal that had been sensitized to accept the image and were called Daguerreotypes after their French inventor. Then came the tintype, invented in 1856 by Hamilton Smith. This was a thin sheet of iron used as a base for light sensitive material to produce a photograph. Along came an American from upstate New York, George Eastman, who was very fascinated by photography, but frustrated with what he considered cumbersome exposure methods. He developed a dry photographic plate, patented it in the United States and England and began his first photographic business in 1880. In 1884, he replaced the glass plates with paper rolls allowing multiple images to be taken much more quickly. Four years later, on September 4, 1888 he patented he "roll film camera". You could take your pictures, mail the camera to Kodak who would develop your 100 photos and send them back to you along with another roll of 100 exposures. Sound familiar? The big difference? You used to get your camera back, now you don't! These pioneers would be amazed with the equipment available to us today. We have the digital camera, the SLR,35mm, the camcorder, automatic exposure and automatic focusing, zoom lens and video. We even take pictures with our cellphones, which we can then download onto our computers. We have the luxury of going just about anywhere to get that perfect shot. Indoors, outdoors, underwater, or on top of a mountain. We attach our camera to a tripod and set the self timer so we can be in that majestic mountain scene. When the equipment was of a size to be transported from place to place, they certainly didn't have a camera case with a padded shoulder strap. We have a camera bag suited to fit every camera and the accessories. Backpacks for hiking up that trail and lens pouches. We can take pictures as a hobby, while on vacation; supplement our income as a weekend photographer/writer for a local newspaper; or travel the world as a full-time photojournalist. Today, our photographic possibilities are limitless thanks, at least in part, to these photography trailblazers.

About The Author
Suzanne VanDeGrift of Web Submission Services, Inc., has developed this article for http://M-ROCK.com, manufacturer of feature packed and functional digital camera bags

The Piano - Key, Hammer And String - Part 1

by: Mike Shaw

The piano, while similar in some of its features too many other kinds of musical instruments, differs materially in several important points from all other kinds. It resembles the Violin, Harp, Guitar, Zither, Dulcimer, in its being stringed. It resembles the Drum, Triangle, Cymbals, Tambourine, Dulcimer, in its being dependent on percussion for the production of its tone; and it resembles the Organ, Clarinet, Concertina, in its being keyed. But it differs from all of these instruments in the following important points. Firstly, in its being dependent on the player's method of finger push on the key for its quality of tone. Secondly, in its being dependent on rapidity of finger push for its quantity of tone and thirdly, in its being dependent on keys for the means of producing percussion. The actual mechanism of percussion, namely, the hammers, being reachable only through the pressing of the keys. It is probably from a want of appreciation of this last fact, that the piano has come to be considered rather as a keyed instrument than as a stringed one. The distinctive feature of the piano is, then, the system of its key mechanism. As the seat of tone, the wire, is made to sound only by a series of communication, starting with the key, it is therefore necessary to understand the method by which this communication is conducted and kept open. The piano key is, basically, a lever that's lifts the hammer that strikes the string. It is a lever of the first class, its fulcrum, or prop, lying between the power and the weight. In the case of the piano, this fulcrum, or centre on which the lever works, is placed about halfway between its two ends, the hammer (with some small intermediate mechanism) being the weight, and the finger the power acting on it. The very limited area should be noticed within which the action of the key is confined. The immediate factor of tone is the hammer. The hammer, by means of intermediate mechanism, being in direct and close contact with the far end of the key, is raised when the near end is depressed by the finger or any weight; and the force with which the hammer is made to strike the string is in proportion to the speed brought to bear on the piano key by the finger at the moment of the push. Quantity of tone is thus the result of the amount of speed used in pushing the key down. When the string has been struck by the hammer, the hammer falls back immediately, to allow the string to vibrate freely. This fallback of the hammer is, however, not a return to the position occupied by it before the stroke; it does not fall completely back until the key is allowed to rise. When the piano key rises, the hammer returns to its original position, and is ready for the next key push. It is of great importance for the student to remember that the hammer is always at some distance from the wire. Except during the very short period of time spent in striking; that after having struck the wire it leaves it instantaneously to assume the half position described above; and that it is powerless to do any more work until after the key has been allowed to rise.

About The Author
Mike Shaw is an organist and music teacher who has produced a selection of downloadable music books for anyone who wishes to learn to play the piano, organ or keyboard. To find out more visit his websites http://www.mikesmusicroom.co.uk and http://www.keyboardsheetmusic.co.uk